The Painter's Corner: Eldar Jewels and Lenses

Painting Corner: Jewels and Lenses
by Shawn Gately
Ah the fine art of painting an Eldar jewel.  Today we’ll talk about a few methods on how to do it and in two basic colors: red and blue.  Eldar are loaded with jewels and if you play them you’ll be painting a lot of jewels.

Shawn from Blue Table Painting is here on Faeit 212, to give us some great tips something that I  myself need to learn. Great timing, as when I get back from vacation I have 15 wraithguard that have already been started.

Fig 00 Lots of jewels on a Fire Prism, eight on the upper side of the turret alone

It should take 30-90 seconds to complete a jewel once practiced.
Here is the video explanation.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYeN3SdLLb4&feature=c4-overview&list=UU-aSLyvFLGEmNFcGomzL47w

This method is not only good for jewels in general (though Eldar do have a lot of them) but also for lenses in general and certain types of eyes.  The first thing is to pick your colors.  Usually you just need a base color and a highlight, but as I explain hereafter some colors are more complex and can be approached in a different way.

Fig 01 Blue and White as base colors

Fig 02 Blue with an alternate highlight color that is not quite straight white

Sometimes, you can choose a highlight that isn’t so stark.  If you want a warmer jewel take a warm light color like ivory or a fleshtone and use that instead of a cold highlight color (such as the coldest- pure white).
A preparatory step is to use a wash or ink to darken the edges of the jewel, just let it seep around the entire rim.  This will accent the jewel just like eye liner.
First step is to put the base coat on.  I’ll show you on this piece of paper.  You will need the paint to be wet for the subsequent stages, so you’ll need to do two or four at the same time.

Fig 03 Put your solid base color on quickly so you can wet blend next

Then, while the jewel is still wet you swipe on a solid accent color across the bottom.  Not like a smiley face mine you, a bit off kilter to one side.  This is the direction the light is passing through the jewel and hitting the bottom.  Be sure to be consistent across the model if there are multiple jewels.

Fig 04 Put on a crescent of your lighter accent color

Fig 05 wet blend along the interior edge

And now the dot.  Make sure this is on the opposite side of the majority of the crescent you put at the bottom as this is setting up the direction that the imaginary light source is coming from.  The thought might cross your mind to simply varnish a solid color thinking that the natural light sources in the room (ie the fluorescent lights in the game shop) will just create the right effect, but that will not work as multiple lights will simply create a jumble.  It doesn’t work.  By the same token don’t go nuts with dots and what-not at the top of the jewel.  Just one simple dot will show up nicely as the model is moving around the gaming table.

Fig 06 The magic dot

Now if you do a red jewel, the same method won’t work.  Imagine for a moment that you highlight with white on the lower crescent part.  It would be pink.  Ugh.  Instead, do the opposite which is start with a darker base color, a gore red or a brownish red (don’t mix black in with your red to get a darker red, a deep brown will work if you need) then highlight up with a true red, like cranberry or carmine.

Fig 07 Dark brownish red, dark red, true red and a lust-for-life yellow that you will love

If you decide to add yellow into the mix be sure it is a strong dark yellow or even a sandy or flesh-tone.  Yellow does not usually have a great opacity (coverage) and won’t do well against the red.  However, if you pick a strong dark yellow you’ll get good results.
Remember, this is just good painting technique overall, and you can use it for lots of different applications.  A brilliant, glowing, clear-looking jewel or lens can really make a model pop.